What Happens If You Don’t Acclimate Aquarium Fish?

No matter if you have just bought a new freshwater fish, saltwater fish, invertebrate, or coral, acclimation plays an important role in the long-term health and survival of your new addition.

I love buying new livestock for my reef tank but for me the journey from store to home is long. If I buy them myself in the city it is a minimum of a 3-hour drive home. If I order them online it’s a 24-hour transport process. Acclimation for me is not even an option.

Common Symptoms of Fish Not Acclimated to a New Aquarium:

Stress
Illness & Disease
Infection
Thermal Shock
Ph Burn
Osmotic Shock
Ammonia Toxicity
Acute Environmental Factors

Most fish stores keep their water parameters at very different levels to your aquarium. They do this to keep the stress and chances of infection to a minimum because a loss of an animal hurts their bottom line.

Fish are able to tolerate these lower parameters from short periods of time but because of this, the difference between your water and theirs could be significant. A slow period of acclimation will be very necessary if the two sets of water parameters are very different.

How Do Water Parameters Effect Fish?

Each parameter listed below needs to be considered when moving a fish from point A to point B:

Temperature

Fish are a cold-blooded animal and this means they are unable to regulate their body temperature as we can. They rely solely on their environment to maintain correct body temperature. Their environment is the water they are in.

When fish are in an aquarium a heater and chiller are able to maintain water temperature to very accurate settings. The greatest risk to fish comes when they are being transported.

Even transporting a short distance can drop the water in the transport bag to cold enough temperatures that can cause the fish to stress. The other being said for those of you living in areas where 100°F weather is frequent. Too hot is just as dangerous as too cold.

Let’s look at it from a human example:
You board a plane in San Diego, fly to a cold and wet Chicago, then later that evening you fly back to San Diego. Being in the airport is like being in the transport bag, full of muck and illness. What do you think the chances are of you coming down with a cough, cold or illness once you got home from the trip!?

Insulated transport boxes, heat/cool packs and transport buckets with heaters are a great way to transport livestock without temperature becoming too much of an issue.

Once at home it is always recommended to float the transport bags in your aquarium for 20-30 minutes to bring the temperature back up to your aquarium temperature.

Ph

Ph is short for ‘Power of Hydrogen’ and it the measure of how acidic or alkaline a body of fluid is.
For a freshwater aquarium, you want to aim for around Ph 6.8 – 7.6 and around Ph 8.1 – 8.4 for a saltwater reef tank.

High levels of Ph can strip the slime coat off the fish and cause chapping to their scales and eventually lead to death.
Low levels of Ph begin to turn the water acidic which can then cause burning to the fish tissue, again, low levels will lead to death.

The main thing to note about Ph is that the scale is logarithmic.
Ph 8.0 is 10x stronger than Ph 7.0
Ph 9.0 is 100x stronger than Ph 7.0

If the water in your transport bag is at a Ph of 7.8 and you just dump your fish into your aquarium of Ph 8.4 the Ph difference will be 6x stronger and that can be a massive shock to your fish.

Salinity

Salinity is the measure of salt concentration within water. Most fish stores keep their water at a lower salinity to help slow down the onset of parasites while the fish is in their custody. Some stores are even as low as 1.017 SG.

The recommended salinity for a healthy home aquarium is around 1.025 SG and as you can see that is a big difference. If you just drop your fish straight from the transport bag and into your aquarium there is a good chance your fish will suffer from Osmotic Shock and die shortly.

Osmoregulation is the fish’s ability to control the ratio of salt to water within its body. A sudden change in salinity can cause acute distress known as Osmotic Shock which usually leads to death within 2-3 days.

Osmotic Shock is usually one of the biggest killers of fish when not properly acclimated.

Ammonia

Ammonia is the main compound excreted by fish in the form of urine and feces. Ammonia is highly toxic to fish.

In the aquarium, Nitrosomonas Bacteria convert this compound into the lesser, but still highly toxic Nitrite. Nitrosomonas Bacteria is one type of bacteria that live in your aquarium and form part of the biological filtration of your tank. The other type of bacteria is Nitrobacter Bacteria that then converts Nitrite into the more tolerable Nitrate.

Growing these bacteria is the Nitrogen Cycle our aquarium must go through to sustain inhabitants.

When your fish is in transport it gets stressed. As a natural part of stress, the fish will defecate more which will slowly raise the Ammonia in the transport bag.

To hopefully offset this the store will have given your fish a lot of water in the bag to help dilute the Ammonia. The longer the fish is in the bag, the more the Ammonia will rise, and the more exposure the fish will have.

Ammonia attacks the fish’s metabolism and because of the higher Ph of saltwater, this allows the Ammonia to be turned into Ammonia Gas, which in turn is far more soluble in water, which increases the toxicity even more!

Possible effects of Ammonia Toxicity can include:

Loss of equilibrium
Erratic movements
Increased heart rate
Increased breathing rate
Convulsions
Coma
Death

Nitrate

Nitrate is the lesser toxic compound of Nitrogen that is converted by the bacteria mentioned above. Although less toxic it can still cause problems to fish when levels begin to climb above 5ppm.

A sudden change in Nitrate can be deadly for your fish. If your local fish store has overstocked aquariums and their water changes are not as regular as they should be and you suddenly drop your fish into your pristine water this can cause what is known as Nitrate Shock.

Similarly, if the fish store water is pristine and your water is overstocked, overfed and your maintenance has lapsed the shock can be brought on that way too.

A rapid change in Nitrate can kill a fish within 1-2 days of the shock.

How Does Environment Effect Fish?

Now we have dealt with some of the parameter effects on your fish there are also some other factors you have to consider when introducing a new fish to their new home…

Light

The lights in a Reef Tank are bright, really bright. We can pay serious money for these to feed our coral but to give a fish sudden exposure to these bright lights will cause it stress, especially if its been in a pitch-black shipping box for the last 24 hours!

Think of how much your eyes hurt when you come out into full sunlight after being in a movie theatre!

Opening the transport box and putting the bags straight under the light to float them is a sure-fire way to bring on the onset of an illness or disease.

Acclimation Bag Floating — Always Turn Off Your Lights!

ALWAYS turn off your lights when floating bags. I always like to open the transport box in dim light conditions and leave it open for 5 min before even moving the bags.

Light acclimation is just as important to water parameter acclimation! Stress is the biggest catalyst of illnesses like Ich and Velvet that lie dormant waiting for a moment to rear their ugly heads!

Flow

Our reef tanks have immense power in the water current to help keep our coral happy. The amount of random flow in our tanks can be overwhelming to a new fish. Next time you are in a fish store have a look at how many powerheads are in the fish storage tanks = Zero!

If the fish you have just bought is not healthy, or suffering from any of the illnesses mentioned above, the sudden introduction to your immense flow could be the end of it. If you then cannot find the fish and its left to rot and decay, then your water parameters are going to spike.

It is always a good idea to turn down the flow in your aquarium for a few hours after the introduction to allow your new fish to settle before being bombarded by the current.

Food

Food may have not been a thought for you with acclimation but it plays a large part in why a lot of fish may die after several weeks. Most fish are like pigs and will anything and everything you throw in the tank, but some are either very picky eaters or have very specific diets.

Ensuring your new fish eats is very important! Some fish like Copperband Butterflies are notorious for losing their appetites when moved from store to home. They can be feeding well in the store, but once you get them home they may not eat in the main aquarium.

This is a time where you need to have them in quarantine to get them feeding again – More on quarantine later.

A Great Tip is to always ask what the fish store feeds their fish and then buy a tub of it to ensure any picky eaters have the best chance of eating when they are in your home aquarium.

Imagine traveling to Japan and the only thing to eat is fried grasshoppers! You know you would be glad to find a Subway or an Olive Garden nearby! Your fish are no different.

Territorial Tank Mates

Nobody likes a bully, but if you have put in some territorial fish before you should have then a constant barrage of attacks may be about to unfold!

Yellowtail Damselfish. Mean Little Bugger – Image Source

A fish stocking plan helps to prevent this and to find out what one is and how to craft one I recommend you watch it on our YouTube channel which you can find here:
The Beginners Reef YouTube Channel

If you find your new addition is getting too much attention you may have to take measures to remove the bully or distract them. Do not go and remove the new fish! It is already stressed!

A good way to help distract your current inhabitants is to put in a tiny sprinkle of food at the opposite end of the tank just before you release the new fish. This will give them time to find a hidey-hole and begin adjusting.

Tank To Tank Differences

Hopefully, you have started to see that the difference between the stocking aquarium and your aquarium can be quite dramatic. The bigger the difference in any one of the water parameters can be enough to hurt or kill your fish, let alone if a few of the parameters are off!

This is why a gradual acclimation period is highly recommended to transition your fish safely. The length of time you take to acclimate your new purchase can be dependant on a few factors:

Tank To Tank Difference – The greater the gap in parameters, the longer the acclimation time needs to be to make the transition gradual rather than rapid.
The Journey Time – The longer the fish have been in transit, the cooler the water may have become and the more Ammonia will be present.
The Species of Animal – Although this article is about fish, animals like starfish are hyper-sensitive to rapid changes. Research is key before you purchase any animal to see what the recommended acclimation time is.
Arrive-Alive Guarantee – To ensure your fish are covered by this policy it is important that you read and follow the procedure laid out by the fish store. Most fish stores and online vendors will have a recommended procedure.
You can find an example of this HERE at Saltwaterfish.com

It is always a good habit to get into testing your transport bag water for all the parameters before you begin acclimation, this will then tell you how long you need to acclimate over.

If the parameters are close, then 30 minutes could suffice.
If the parameters are far apart, then you may be drip acclimating for 2-3 hours.

For a really great article on how I have been acclimating my fish for years see the Further Reading section at the bottom of this article.

Quarantine

Although you may be a beginner to saltwater aquariums I want you to really, really consider setting up a quarantine tank. It does not have to be expensive and it does not have to run all the time but it can really help you save a lot of money on fish.

Before you switch off I Highly recommend you read this article.

Quarantine is such a good way to give your fish a rest after their journey, get them feeding and also medicate them for any unseen internal and external parasites, bacterial infections or diseases.

If you have been around the forums long enough you will have heard about Ich or Velvet and these illnesses are predominantly brought on by stress and are VERY contagious among fish.

Fish Quarantine Header — Click HERE for Article

To make matters worse, most of the medications to treat most fish illnesses are copper-based and copper will kill all your invertebrates and corals if added to your main aquarium.

4 weeks in a quarantine tank will dramatically improve the long term health of not only your new purchases but your main aquarium too. It is really easy to do once you have done it!

Once you begin to spend over $50 on a single fish, then it is time to really invest $50 on a QT setup!

One Last Tip…

Every time your fish moves from one aquarium to another then you need to acclimate. This includes:

Going from store to aquarium
Going from quarantine to aquarium
Going from friends aquarium to your aquarium

Any Time A Fish Moves – You Need To Think Acclimation!

To Finish

There is always a big debate about whether you should acclimate a new fish or not. Many aquarists never do it and they may be on borrowed time. Many aquarists like myself have been diligent with acclimation since day one and it has served us well.

Acclimation is a personal choice, but when looking at all the factors above that can affect the health of your new fish why would you take the chance.

A routine of acclimation and quarantine will really see great improvements in the quality and length of life for your fish, not to mention saving you the stress from losing your daughter’s favorite fish!

Aquarium Safe Glues, Adhesives & Silicones – Your Guide

We all have projects or times when we need to glue something in our aquarium and knowing which product to use is not only important for it working correctly but which are not going to harm our livestock!

Glues, adhesives, and silicones need to be aquarium safe to ensure they are non-toxic to aquatic life. Specific products are manufactured to be aquarium safe and are usually displayed on the package. Cyanoacrylate Super Glue and pure silicone are the most common aquarium safe adhesives used.

There is a tremendous array of products available and this guide was written to help you find the right product that has been tried and tested either by myself or hundreds of other aquarists over the years.

The most common types of bonding agents used in today’s hobby are:

Super Glue
Silicone
Cement
Hot Melt Glue

By clicking on each image it will take you to that product at Amazon.com

What are Aquarium Safe Super Glues?

The most common aquarium-safe glue are Superglues that contain Ethyl Cyanoacrylate. The gel visocities work best as it allows the aquarium owner to apply the glue and place it into the water without it running too much. When the superglue is used it sets in seconds once in contact with the water.

Super glue is mainly used in this hobby/industry for bonding coral fragments or ‘Frags’ to ceramic plugs or bases. This is how the majority of the coral gets distributed around the world and within our hobby.

A large coral colony has a branch or piece of it cut off and glued onto the plug. The best adhesive to use for this is Super Glue Gel. The gel type is most commonly used as you can easily place a blob of glue on the plug then press the coral frag into it, hold it for a few seconds and its secured.

Here is a range of super glue adhesives that I have personally used along with many other aquarists in the industry. The main base ingredient you need to look for in a reef-safe super glue is ETHYL CYANOACRYLATE.

Providing this is the only ingredient in the glue then you are good to go. If you find any other type of main ingredient, maybe give that glue a miss and head to one of these proven brands…

Gorilla Glue Gel

Loctite Super Glue Gel

Seachem Reef Glue

BSI Frag Glue

Two Little Fishes CorAffix

Boston Aqua Farms Reef Glue

EcoTech Marine Coral Glue

E.S.V Zap Gel

DollarTree Super Glue Gel

This is just a small selection of the many, many brands commonly available at your local fish stores, online stores, dollar stores, and hardware stores.

Be sure to look for ‘Gel’ and ‘Ethyl Cyanoacrylate’ and you will be all set for your fragging experience!

Most of the super glue gels will ‘Skin Over’ then harden within minutes of being immersed in water. Providing you are not placing vast amounts of glue into your aquarium you will not see any toxic effects.

If you are unsure, the best practice is to place your newly glued frag into a container of aquarium water and allow it to fully set and harden, then place your frag on the rack or sand bed in your aquarium.

Super glue is not just limited to fragging corals but also for creating frag racks, fixing broken equipment, bonding small rocks together and any other uses you come across.

Bondic™

The last “Super Glue” I want to touch on is a relatively new type of adhesive called Bondic™. This is a liquid-based plastic oligomer that flows just like a normal adhesive until it is subjected to UV light. This then hardens the liquid in seconds into a solid plastic.

This adhesive is great for mounting coral frags that can be tricky and need fast curing to get them to stay in place. A small blog of liquid on the frag plug and a quick shine from the built-in UV LED and your new frag is secured in seconds.

You can find the Bondic™ adhesive system at your local hardware store or HERE at Amazon.com
Refills are also available for the kit which you can also find HERE at Amazon.com

During my research, I found this paper at sciencedirect.com where scientists in Japan have been using Bondic™ to secure Acropora frags to polycarbonate bolts for attachment to new coral restoration projects.

Read the Science Paper Here:
Usage of UV-curable oligomer-based adhesive agent in hermatypic coral experimental research

What are Aquarium Safe Silicones?

Silicones that are made from 100% pure silicone are generally considered aquarium safe. Avoid silicones containing any mold or mildew inhibitors, bacteria protection, or anti-microbial ingredients. Silicones that show a ‘Toxic to Aquatic Life’ logo on their tube usually become safe once fully cured.

Silicone is mainly used for building glass aquariums. All the seams on a glass aquarium are joined using silicone because of its incredible bonding strength with glass.

Many aquarists have built their own custom glass aquariums, sumps, frag tanks and containers with the help of some of the easy to find silicone products on the market today.

The thing you may have noticed here is GLASS. Silicone is the only product designed to join glass to one another. It is not a glue or a bonding agent that melts the material on a molecular level and chemically bonds it but rather it relies on its chemical properties to grip to each surface, especially when they have been joined and then pressure applied to them.

The main concern you have to be aware of when looking for an aquarium or reef-safe silicone is that the product you purchase is just 100% PURE SILICONE.

Many silicones available can have additives in them to help in your home, but these additives can leach into your water and poison your inhabitants.
Some of the additives you MUST stay clear of are:

Mildew Resistant
Mold Inhibitor
Bacterial Protection
Anti-Microbial
or any other similar ingredients

Some of the silicones may show they are toxic to aquatic life. This usually refers to the silicone in an uncured state. Providing you have bought one of the silicones below and have allowed sufficient time for the silicone to fully cure (Read the manufacturers directions) then the silicone will become completely inert and safe.

Some of the hobby’s most commonly used and Aquarium-Safe silicone products are:

GE Silicone 1

GE SCS 1200

ASI Aquarium Sealant

Aqueon Silicone Sealant

Aquascape Silicone Sealant

Momentive RTV 100 Series

GE SCS 1200 seems to be the common silicone product that most of the tank builders use that I have found during my research for this article. As always, be sure to fully research your selected product before use and follow all directions.

What are Aquarium Safe Cements?

Cements used for bonding plastics from Oatey, Tensol and WELD-On are considered aqaurium safe once fully cured. In their liquid and gel states they are harmful to aquatic life but once cured become fully inert and safe to use inside the aquarium. Plumbing and sump assembly are common uses for cement.

Cements that are used in this hobby fall under two categories depending on the type of material being used to bond:

Acrylic Materials – Usually Sheet materials for building tanks, sumps, and containers
PVC & ABS materials – Usually all aquarium plumbing is made from one of these materials

The bonding of Acrylic, PVC, and ABS uses a chemical reaction at the molecular level to in effect, melt the two joining pieces together forming a very strong bond.

The viewing windows you see in the world’s largest aquariums are usually made from incredibly thick acyclic sheets and then bonded on-site to form one big window.

This Photo from Jon Rawlinson captures the faint seams in the window panel

Acrylic

As stated above Acrylic cement is used for the bonding of sheet material primarily. Most sumps are built out of acrylic panels, have the edges machined square and flat and then bonded to one another.

This is very popular for hobbyists wanting to make a sump to custom fit their home or stand. A simple table saw and router can give very good results when preparing the pieces for bonding.

There are two types of Acrylic Cement used:

A water-like, solvent-based product used for bonding sheet edges. This solvent uses capillary action to penetrate the joint, then it evaporates leaving a molecularly bonded joint.
A thicker get-type cement used for building items with gaps in the seams. Frag Racks, baffles etc.

The most popular products used in the hobby/industry are:

Water Consistency:

WELD-ON 4

Tensol 12

Gel Consistency:

WELD-ON 16

Tensol 70

Just like the silicones above, these products come with warnings regarding harmful to aquatic life. If you were to pour these products into your aquarium they would certainly kill everything in there. Again, once these products are used and then FULLY CURED will this render them safe for aquatic use.

PVC & ABS

We have all seen some of the awesome piping installations from all over the globe. Some are just pure white pipe and now we are getting colored pipes and fittings making for some stunning eye-candy.

Colored Aquarium Plumbing — Multicolored PVC Pipe Installation

All of the pipe used is either made from PVC or ABS and they are all joined together by molecular bonding of the pieces. PVC and ABS each have their own primer fluids and adhesives.

The job of the primer is to be applied to the pipe and fitting first to clean and prepare the joints ready for the bonding. The adhesive is similar to the acrylic cement where it melts the surfaces of the two adjoining pieces and locks the molecules together to form a very strong, waterproof joint.

The main rigid pipe system used in the hobby is PVC Schedule 40.

Oatey and WELD-ON are the two popular brands used in the hobby for both PVC and ABS. Each range comes in a variety of colored adhesives with clear, blue, gray and purple being the most used.

I personally have always used Oatey Clear Primer and Clear Adhesive. The purple adhesive in the joints looks a mess. The Oatey Clear PVC adhesive is rated for Schedule 40 pipes up to 4″ in diameter making it perfect for our installations.
(See the Oatey Website Here for more Details)

The common PVC Primer and Adhesives used in the hobby are:

Oatey Regular Clear PVC Cement

Oatey Clear PVC Primer

WELD-ON 705 Clear PVC Cement

WELD-ON C-65 PVC Clear Cleaner

For ABS plumbing or if you are using a mix of ABS & PVC I recommend:

Oatey All Purpose Clear PVC/ABS Cement

WELD-ON 790 Multi-Purpose PVC/ABS

Aquarium Safe Hot Melt Glue

Hot melt glue being reef-safe gets asked a lot in the forums of this hobby so I just had to add it to this article.

Hot melt glue works by inserting sticks of hard plastic into a heating/dispensing device that turns the solid plastic into a hot, liquid, free-flowing gel-type consistency that solidifies as it cools.

This type of glue is very common in the craft hobby area as it is cheap, easy to use and works very well. For use in aquariums, it can be hit or miss.

There are two main types of glue available to the hobbyist:

EVA – Ethylene-vinyl acetate. This is the most popular as it is cheap to manufacture.
Metallocene – This is a more premium product as it melts cleaner and has very little odor.

The polymers used in the ‘Plastic Sticks’ are reef-safe once cooled and fully cured. All of the MSDS data and I looked into all had a Zero Aquatic Toxicity. Just be sure to read the ingredients list on the packaging to ensure there are no added additives, dyes, fragrances, waxes or oils. Keep an eye open for Non-Toxic and check out the manufacturer’s website for further details.

The bonding strength of hot melt glue is not that good. The best way to ensure the best possible join is to rough up each joining surface with sand paper or an Exacto-Knife to give the adhesive something to ‘Key’ into and hold.

The majority of uses for a hot glue adhesive is for a temporary fix of a broken part until the new one arrives, but to be honest with super glue around, especially the Bondic system, I would not bother with hot glue!

To Finish

That sums up pretty much every bonding agent used in our hobby outside of equipment manufacturing. Many of these products are used every single day with great results. Be sure you use the right product with a high-quality pedigree and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Disclaimer:
The information provided in this article is to be used as a guide. Proper research and usage techniques should be sought after by you before using any of these products. The Beginners Reef cannot be held liable for any losses or damages arising from the use of these products.

Just like everything in life; If you are unsure, seek help from professionals.

Your First Reef Tank – Whats The Best Size Aquarium?

Buying your first saltwater aquarium is a really exciting time and hopefully, it will be a time you will remember forever! I still remember picking up my first reef tank! I was like a kid in a candy store!!

With so many types, shapes and sizes of the aquarium it can be difficult to know which one is right for you and it is going to take a little bit of Q&A to figure that out, but that is where this article will hopefully help.

In general, 40-75 gallon aquariums are the perfect size for a first reef tank. They are a good size to create a stunning aquarium, but not too large to stock and maintain. All-In-One aquariums are popular as they come with everything built into the tank kit and are very easy to set up & afford.

Many people may argue that these tanks are too small but as a first-time reefer you want to be smart with your money and give yourself the best learning experience without causing financial or time distress.

Once you have gained some experience and you are sure this hobby is for you then an upgrade after a few years will be a much smarter option. By then you will understand exactly what fish, coral, and aquarium you would like.

You would never try fishing for sharks by going out a buying a boat, trailer and thousands of dollars of gear. You go and try a charter first and see how you like it. This hobby is just the same.

With today’s technology and the understanding of what you need to do you can successfully keep smaller reef tanks with ease. Don’t take my word for it, go check out the forums at Nano-Reef.com!

What Things Are To Consider When Buying Your First Reef Tank?

Now before you get to your fish store or start looking through the online vendors there are a few things you need to go through and answer that will help steer you to your perfect first tank:

Volume
Initial Budget
Monthly Budget
Installation Location
Planning to Move House
Time

Let’s look at each one in more detail…

Volume

Volume is the total water volume your aquarium system holds. You generally want to get the biggest volume you can afford and fit in your desired location.

The biggest reason you want to get the biggest you can is to aid in water stability. With a reef tank, the stability in all of your water parameters will dictate how well your tank will run and grow.

Fluval Sea Evo XII Large — A 13.5 Gallon Tank Can Fluctuate Rapidly

The more volume your system has, the longer it takes for any parameter to swing one way or another. Take temperature for instance – A small 20 gallon tank can heat up and cool down rapidly in homes that get hot during the summer months. This causes rapid swings in temperature.

Now place a 75 gallon aquarium in the same room and it will take far longer to heat up and cool down creating a more gradual change rather than rapid spikes.

This is the case for all water parameters – More volume = More work needs to be done by external influences to affect it.

An aquarium with a sump is a great way to increase water volume for a given floor footprint. Adding a 20 gallon sump into the stand can increase a 60 gallon aquariums volume by 1/3.

Initial Budget

There is no question that setting up your first reef tank can get expensive real quick if you have to buy everything brand new. Here are a few things you WILL need straight away:

Tank & possibly stand, canopy
Reef-Capable Light
Live/Dry Rock
Sand
Heater
Protein Skimmer
Filter Media
Salt
Refractometer
Test Kits
Thermometer

Wavemaker/Powerhead
Nets
Food
Livestock
Algae Magnet
Toothbrush or Algae Scrubber
Sand Vacuum
Containers for Water Changes
Measuring Cup/Jugs
Turkey Baster
Towels

In addition to the above items, these are very popular first purchases to really help keep your aquarium stable:

Automatic Top Off System
RO/DI Water filter
Small Quarantine Setup

Now, this may seem overwhelming at first but these are just the basics you will need to get your aquarium running. Most of these items will cost roughly the same no matter what size of aquarium you get but some are going to really increase in price when you increase the size of the aquarium! Protein Skimmer, Lights & Rock will increase the most.

Here is a free downloadable guide to help you check off all the equipment you may need to get started:

Click Here To Download The Free PDF Guide

Download

Monthly Budget

Once you have your aquarium setup you are going to have ongoing monthly costs that you will also have to take into account.

Consumables like food, salt, and test kits are the most common costs. These are items that will last you many months, but if you budget each month then when you have to buy another bucket of salt, for instance, you will have the money for it.

Many tanks fail because life throws unexpected curve balls at you, then that bucket of salt you need for your next water change does not get purchased and your water change routine starts to lapse.

The larger the aquarium, the more consumables like salt you will use. Not only that, but you will want to stock the aquarium and coral and fish are expensive. Your first 1-2 years will need a healthy monthly budget to get it filled, especially if you have a +75 gallon tank!

Once you have set up a reef tank, the ongoing commitment is what will guarantee its success or failure.

For more in-depth information on monthly running costs please see our article in the ‘Further Reading’ section at the end of this article.

Installation Location

This is usually one of the biggest factors on what size tank you get. Where can you place the aquarium? – Is the tank going to be small and can sit on your kitchen counter or office desk, do you have a perfect 4ft recess in your living room? Are you creating a room divider?

There are also many other things to consider when placing an aquarium. Can the floor support the weight of a 100 gallon aquarium (860lbs for the water alone)? Is it next to a well-used door that is going to be constantly banging? Will it be exposed to -40°F every time you open the front door in winter?

For some of you, the perfect location may have sparked the thoughts that began your journey into saltwater aquariums, but there are just a few things you need to think about that may not be obvious. Just one of them could be a game-changer for your planned location.

Some things to consider are:

Is it in the best viewing location, or stuck in a hallway with no one to view it?
Is it accessible for maintenance? Deep aquariums can be tough to work on without side access.
Will it get direct sunlight? Possible algae issues.
Draughts and HVAC vents. Will these cause temperature control issues?
TV and stereo speakers – Are these close by to cause fish stress from constant vibrations?
Are there sufficient electrical outlets close by? Overloading electrical outlets can lead to a fire.

For more detailed info on these points please check out the link to our Aquarium Location article in the ‘Further Reading’ section at the end of this article.

Planning to Move House

Are you planning to move house in the next few years? Are you on a 2 year lease for your rental? Moving a 20 gallon nano aquarium is a pretty straightforward process. However, moving a 75 gallon reef tank that is full of coral, fish, and inverts is going to take a day just by itself, let alone moving the rest of your house!

If you are planning a move in a few years, then I would suggest you start with a small nano aquarium then use the move to plan your upgrade. That way you can also purchase an aquarium to perfectly suit your new home.

The aquarium you have now may have absolutely nowhere to go in your new home! This is a rare scenario but it is one I have come across when moving an aquarium for a client. It was then a mad panic to buy a whole new aquarium, stand and sump! That was a long and stressful day!

Time

Just like any pet, a saltwater aquarium is a commitment and time is part of that. Daily and weekly time must be dedicated to the upkeep and maintenance of your aquarium to ensure the inhabitants live in pristine conditions.

Without having a regular time slot to attend to the tank it can soon be on a downhill trajectory that can cause you a lot of stress, extra time and money to fix.

For me, every Tuesday night after the kids have gone to bed is my tank night. This is when I do my water parameter tests, maintenance, water change, and general inspections to ensure my reef stays the best it can be.

I can tell you from experience it is a lot easier to scrub off a light dusting of algae off the pumps, overflow and tank seams than it is to remove hard, encrusted concrete that has been left for several months!

No matter the size of the aquarium, your time that you need to dedicate to it will not vary much if you stay under the 100 gallon range.

Are There Different Types of Saltwater Aquarium?

Now that you have seen some of the things to consider when buying an aquarium this leaves the type of aquarium. There are many styles to pick from and all have varying price ranges.

The main thing to consider is that as you go up in gallonage, the price and size of the equipment to run it also increases. Some of the ‘Plug&Play’ systems from the manufacturers may seem to have a hefty price tag, but when you sit down and total up all the equipment that you may otherwise need, you can see there might not be much difference in the two totals.

Standard Aquariums

Standard aquariums are an off the shelf aquarium that can be bought in most pet stores and be used for freshwater, saltwater, reptiles, and rodents.

These are by far the cheapest aquariums but you can be very limited to the equipment you can fit and run on them. Hang-On-Back filtration and canister filters are the most popular form of filtration used with this type of aquarium.

There are many successful saltwater aquariums ran this way but they do have some challenges in terms of maintenance, space to fit equipment and the biggest issue I find with these tanks is that all the equipment is visible which takes away the natural beauty of the reef you are trying to create.

40 Gallon Breeder Aquariums are a very popular standard-sized aquarium as they offer a nice volume and great dimensions for a reef tank – 36″ Long x 18″ Wide x 16″ Deep.

All-In-One Aquariums

These are great for a first aquarium as they have all the filtration built into it and the can come with matching stands if required. They are usually in the smaller gallonage range for aquariums which makes them great for a beginner.

There are many great AIO aquariums available all with varying equipment included. There are many optional upgrades available for many of the AIO aquariums making it extremely easy to increase the efficiency of the aquarium while keeping all the equipment hidden away in the filtration area.

One of the most popular upgrades is a Media Rack from InTank. These devices allow for easy access to filtration media for quick replacement in a vast range of AIO aquariums.

Each rack is specifically designed to fit the designated aquarium.

You can find more information on them
Here at Amazon.com

You Can Find Out More Information About All-In-One Aquariums Here:

What Is An All-In-One (AIO) Aquarium?

Aquariums With Sumps

By far the most common type of aquarium setup in our hobby. There are so many types and sizes of both aquarium and sumps, including some Plug&Play kits from the popular manufacturers.

You may hear these types of aquariums referred to as ‘Drilled’ referring to the glass being drilled for pipes to be installed. An overflow or surface skimmer is required to maintain the water level at a set height.

Sumps are usually installed in the cabinet below the aquarium or can be installed in a separate filtration room and piped to the aquarium.

This is how I have my aquarium installed. The tank is in the living room, with all my sump and filtration below in the basement.

You can have aquariums with the plumbing or overflow installed internally or externally to suit your preference.

External Aquarium Overflow Box — External Overflow

Because of the many options/combinations available from so many manufacturers, this can be one of the cheapest types of aquarium to install, but it requires more design work on your part.

You Can Find Out More About Tank & Sump setups Here:

What is a Reef Ready Aquarium?

Cube Aquariums

Cube aquariums are aquariums that are the same dimensions on all sides to form a cube. These can make incredible aquariums for the right location as they can provide great depth to craft some beautiful aquascapes.

Bio Cube BC32 Stand — Biocube 32 Gallon AIO Aquarium

Cube aquariums can come in a variety of types from AIO, internal or external overflows, as part of a Plug&Play kit or be sold as separate parts so you can design a system to match your requirements.

One great feature of cube aquariums is that you can have them custom made with a center overflow and with some clever plumbing you can have a reef tank sitting in the middle of your room with very minimal equipment visible.

This is not a common aquarium, especially for a beginner but if your home and budget would fit this type of aquarium then you can have a show stopper tank built for you!

Drop Off Aquariums

These are a new trend that has materialized within our hobby and they create a very unique looking aquarium. They are modeled on the edge of a coral reef where they drop off into the abyss.

These aquariums usually come with an internal overflow and room for a sump in the cabinet below. Many people like to use these aquariums as they can fit perfectly next to a chair or at the end of a couch and make viewing them as comfortable as you can get!

Saltwater Aquarium Setup Examples

Selecting the aquarium is just one part of the process but then it can be really daunting to figure out what equipment is needed to run the tank. To help you with this I created a series of Setup Guides that list all the essential equipment and costs for many different sizes and styles of aquariums.

You can find the guides by clicking the banner below:

To Finish

Deciding on the type and size of aquarium for your first reef tank is one of the most exciting parts of your journey. By being able to think about every point mentioned in this article you should be able to find the perfect solution for your home or office and ensure you will have the time and finance to ensure its long term success.

Be aware though that this hobby is addictive and every aquarist starts to think about their next tank and 99% of the time its a bigger tank!

The best size aquarium for you is a combination of budget, time availability, location and the style of aquarium. When done right your aquarium will become a piece of art in your home that will be cherished by all for many years to come.

Using Beach Sand In A Saltwater Aquarium – Pro’s & Con’s

For those of you lucky enough to live close to the coast the thought of just dropping by your local beach and grabbing a few bucketfuls of sand for your new aquarium could be tempting.

Although sand can seem like an expense that you could offset by getting your own there are quite a few things you need to consider to see if it is really worth the work.

Collecting sand from a clean area of a beach, thoroughly washing, and leaving to settle should make it aquarium safe. The legality and amount of unknown pollutants in beach sand make it too risky for many tank owners. Buying aquarium-specific sand is the safest way to start an aquarium.

Many people have successfully used sand from the ocean in their reef aquariums but I want to share some things you need to think about to help you decide if this is the correct route for you.

Things To Consider

Before you head down to the beach with a shovel and a couple of buckets in the back of your vehicle here are is a list of things to think about…

Legality

Many cities have bylaws preventing you from helping yourself to the sand on their beaches. Some cities that are popular tourist destinations have been known to truck in nice sand to enhance the beauty of their beaches. I’m sure they would not be too happy to find you stealing some of it.

Each city/state/province/country has individual laws concerning the taking of sand and it is something you need to look into for the area you wish to collect from.

You may find that there are no laws, you may find that some have fixed penalties and some may even have felony offenses so be sure to do your homework. Taking one bucket is one thing, loading up the bed of your pickup is something else!

Pollution

As today’s world seems to be bent on poisoning itself you can bet that it might be a tough task to find a collection location where you can harvest sand with no pollution.

Many of our cities dump into the ocean and unless you have a boat and are able to find pristine locations offshore you will be limited to collecting from the shoreline. This can be where a lot of the pollutants in the water gets pushed to.

Keep an eye out for garbage, algae, discolored water, oil sheens or odors at your point of collection, but this does not guarantee the water is free from bacteria,microscopic pollutants or heavy metals, etc.

One option could be to take a sample of the water and sand from your intended collection point and have it analyzed by a lab to see if the sand is hiding any nasties.

Type Of Sand

There are two main types of sand used in the aquarium hobby. Aragonite-based and Silica-based. For saltwater aquariums, Aragonite-based is the preferred option because silicates are rocket fuel to algae.

As your aquarium matures the silicates that are present in your aquarium will fuel numerous algae blooms, now if you have a substrate that is based on silicate you can bet you will be facing heavier and longer algae blooms.

The majority of the sand on the world’s shorelines is Silica-based. Silica sand is ground up pieces of rock. Aragonite sand is mainly ground up pieces of dead coral and aquatic organism skeletons.

CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink Sand — One of the many types of aquarium sand at Amazon.com

Grain Size

If you have seen any aquarium turned into a sandstorm this is because of the size of sand grain that was used in the aquarium. Fine grains and powerful flow can create an immense mess, especially because keeping corals requires a lot of powerful, random flow.

Fiji Pink from CaribSea is one of the most popular commercially available aquarium substrates and that grain size ranges from 0.5mm to 1.5mm. If your powerheads and wavemakers are not arranged correctly even this can get blown around – This is what I personally use too and it’s beautiful, but it takes some fiddlin’ to get the flow correct!

The majority of beach sand is of very fine grain size. Usually less than 1mm because of the constant tumbling action when in the surf. This size of grain can be very difficult to prevent from blowing around in a saltwater aquarium.

Be sure to have a look around the beach and under the water and inspect the grain size so you don’t end up sucking out all the sand from your tank in 6 months because it turns into a scene from the Mummy every day!

Collection Location

Where are you going to collect the sand from? How much do you need to collect? Are you collecting dry sand off the beach or wet sand from under the water? Is the tide in or out? How far do you need to carry your buckets?

These are some of the things to think about when you take that shovel to the coast. I made the mistake of taking my car to a local sand quarry to get some sand for my kid’s sandbox I built (It was a proud dad, bucket list moment!).

I placed two Rubbermaid’s on the ground and started shoveling. When I tried to pick one up to load it into my car I almost blew my o-ring out! Sand is fricking heavy!!! And that was dry sand!

When collecting your sand make sure you park as close as you can and maybe even have a wagon or something to help you carry those buckets. A cubic foot of wet sand can weigh up to 15lbs more than dry sand!

Transportation

So now you have your sand back at your vehicle, please get help to lift it in and out as you do not want to injure yourself! You have a lot of work still left to do with this sand and protecting your back is paramount.

A 5 gallon bucket of wet sand can weigh around 90lbs so get help. Don’t be He-Man (showing my age now!) and then get hurt!

Die-Off

The sand you collect, especially from the ocean is full of living organisms and bacteria. Once it is removed from its natural habitat these are going to begin to die.

Unless you are lucky enough to be collecting in Florida/Hawaii or similar the temperature of the water you are collecting from will not be at the 78°F-80°F that our aquariums are kept at. The organisms and bacteria will be accustomed to living in the colder ocean and may not survive in your aquarium.

Warm Water Collection Will Help Prevent Die-Off

Once these organisms begin to die you will have a nitrogen cycle on your hands. This is fine providing you are aware of it, but if you plan on collecting sand, ocean water and then adding fish all in the same week I’m afraid the chances of your fish surviving may be very slim.

Washing Process

To ensure the cleanest beach sand is going into your aquarium you need to thoroughly, I mean thoroughly clean it! Forget about collecting sand full of goodness because you really have to wash it all out to give you the least amount of problems down the road.

A good tip I saw once was to get a childs pool, fill it full of sand and get washing it, however, you need to ideally wash it with RO/DI water rather than using the hose connected to a tap.

Washing it with tap water could just bind the pollutants and heavy metals in the tap water into the sand and cause you problems in the future.

Fill the pool with the sand and water and stir like crazy, remove the silty water and repeat. The more you can do this the better. It is going to take a long time as the small grains make the water cloudy real quick.

This is one of those times where more effort spent now will pay dividends in the long term. Be sure to inspect the sand for glass and debris and try and get it as clean as you can. DO NOT use any kind of soap or bleach. Just lots of RO/DI water – Bottled water in 5 gallon jugs is good for this.

How Much Are You Saving??

Collecting your own beach sand can require a tremendous amount of time and effort. If you are only going to collect 1/2 bucket full then maybe not. I wanted to show the cost in 2020 of how much your sand will cost you to fill your aquarium.

This Aquarium Sand Cost Comparison Table is Based on:-

2″ Deep Sand Bed
Dry Sand – CaribSea Dry Aragonite Fiji Pink Reef Sand – 15lb bag ($29.49ea)
Live Sand – CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink Sand – 10lb bag ($23.64ea) & 20lb bag ($38.99ea)

Aquarium Size	Footprint	Sand Required	Dry Sand Cost $US	Live Sand Cost $US
15 Gal	24″ x 12″	30 lbs	$58.98	$62.63
30 Gal	36″ x 12″	45 lbs	$88.47	$101.62
55 Gal	48″ x 12″	60 lbs	$117.96	$116.97
75 Gal	48″ x 18″	90 lbs	$176.76	$179.60
120 Gal	48″ x 24″	120 lbs	$235.92	$233.94
150 Gal	72″ x 18″	135 lbs	$265.41	$272.93
180 Gal	72″ x 24″	180 lbs	$353.88	$350.91
240 Gal	96″ x 24″	240 lbs	$471.84	$467.88
300 Gal	96″ x 30″	300 lbs	$589.80	$584.85
500 Gal	96″ x 49″	490 lbs	$1002.66	$959.40

The data in the table above was calculated using this awesome Sandbed Calculator from Bulk Reef Supply. If you wish to check it out for your aquarium be sure to CLICK HERE.

Cost Vs Effort

Hopefully you now have a little more understanding of what may be involved in filling your aquarium with sand. Is saving $200 of sand from the fish store worth all the effort it may take to collect your own?

Are you OK with accepting possible problems with algae or unexplainable issues in the future? If so then go grab the shovel. For me, I wanted the most sterile start to my reef aquarium so that I would not be fighting issues from day one.

I started my current reef aquarium with around 100lbs of CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink Live Sand and around 80lbs or dry rock for my aquascape. Touch wood I have had no major issues with the aquarium!

Oh and have fun transporting a good amount of sand from the beach to your home! When my son wanted a sandbox, we took my car and some Rubbermaid totes to a local sand quarry. After shoveling sand into the numerous totes I then proceeded to pick one up! I almost blew my O-ring out! Holy Moly sand is heavy, and this was dry sand!

After emptying out half of each container it took multiple trips to get enough sand. Bear this in mind if your wandering down to the beach with an empty pail – just remember you have to carry it back and it’s heavy!

To Finish

Collecting sand from the ocean my be a good option for you and providing you collect it from a clean source with larger grain sizes and wash it really, really, really well you should have no problems using it. There are many people who collect sand every year but for most, the cost of buying the commercially available sand outweighs the effort and possible problems you may face.

Feeding New Feed Fish After Acclimation? When & How!

Getting your new fish home to your aquarium is always super exciting for you. But spend a moment to think about your new purchase. Chances are they are terrified and highly stressed.

Think about the last time you were put in an unknown location and it was very busy and chaotic. I know your heart rate rose! I’m pretty sure the last thing on your mind was eating! This is the same for most fish when moved.

There is no rule to feeding new fish straight after acclimation, but the fish will tell you. Some fish will be out swimming immediately, while others may go and hide. A small feed to test their appetite will show if they are ready to accept food. If not, wait 24 hours and try again.

There is no science to this and like any pet, with time you will learn to understand them. This article gives you some great tips and information on feeding your fish after they have joined your family.

What To Do if a New Fish is Not Eating?

If a new fish is not eating, check for territorial fish harassing them, try and place food near their hiding place with a feeding tube, Cath them and isolate them in a fish trap to get them feeding, try different food, try feeding at a different time of the day or after light have gone out.

It has been 2-3 days and you have not seen your new fish and you are starting to get worried. Are you able to find your fish? Is it hiding in a dark hiding spot? Are any other fish pestering it?

These are some of the things to try and answer. I once had a Royal Gramma that was really shy when I first introduced him to the aquarium. I had not seen him for days so I went looking for him.

One tip I was given was to get a small mirror and use it to look down the side of the aquarium that is up against the wall. I was lucky enough to catch a glimpse of his tail sticking out of a hole in the live rock. He was moving so now I went to step #2.

I waited until the lights went out on my aquarium and then came back downstairs about an hour later with a red-lensed flashlight. This allows you to look into the aquarium without disturbing the inhabitants. Apparently fish cannot see red light – Who knew!?

I found the Royal Gramma out swimming around while the other fish slept. This may be the case for your new fish. Especially those that are very shy or you have some boisterous or territorial fish in there.

I would drop in a few pellets for it each night when it was swimming around and after approximately 10 days he started to appear during the day.

If, on the other hand, your fish is out swimming but not eating you may want to look at the following options:

Try a different food – Not all fish may like what you feed them. Try frozen, or Mysis, sinking pellets or freeze-dried
Call the store you brought the fish from and see what they feed their tanks
Hopefully, you have done your research and you know if the fish requires a special diet. Mandarin Dragonets and Copperband Butterflyfish are notorious to convert to eating your foods
Try feeding at a different time of the day
Try placing food directly near the fish using a turkey baster or feeding pipette/syringe
Catch the fish and place them in a breeder trap or isolation box and get them feeding without the other fish pestering them
Try and net them and get them into a quarantine tank to allow for a closer inspection and treat for a possible internal parasite curbing their appetite

A Typical Fish Isolation Box
Find Them Here at Amazon.com

How Long Does it Take for a New Fish to Settle?

On average it takes between 3-7 days for a new fish to settle into an aquarium. It may hide for several days because it is being chased as territory is altered, it may be out swimming straight away, or it may be up hiding in a corner. During this time it may not feed with the rest of the tank.

If this is the case I always feed the main tank fish first. This gets them distracted and leaves the new addition alone. I then try and place some food right by the new fish in an attempt to get them feeding. Usually the first day the fish can be timid, but as the lights go out they tend to venture around the tank a lot more.

As each day passes the new fish will begin to find their territory and settle in.

Are There Tips To Help New Fish Settle In An Aquarium?

Your new fish are about to enter their final home and making it as stress-free as possible for them will not only ensure their health but can help to reduce the chance of a stress-induced illness like Ich appearing.

Here are a few tips:-

Feed Your Tank Just Before Adding – By doing this your aquarium inhabitants will be distracted as the new addition gets added. You don’t need to feed much, just enough at the opposite end of the aquarium to get the crowd over there and let the new guy/s find a hiding spot.

Keep The Aquarium Lights Off – Moving any fish from one tank to another is a stressful time, especially if they have just come from the fish store or through the mail. By turning off the lights, it keeps your other fish a little subdued and allows your new addition to slip into the shadows and settle.

Target Feed the New Addition – Over the next few days keep an eye on your new fish and ensure it gets some food given directly to it if it is hiding a lot. A busy, chaotic tank can make some fish take a week or more to come out and join in.

You Can Find This Feeding Pipette HERE at Amazon.com

Quarantine – Allowing your fish to spend time in quarantine not only protects your main aquarium from diseases but also allows your new addition/s to recover from shipping and get used to your food. More on this later!

Is Fish Quarantine Necessary?

Placing newly bought fish in quarantine is not required but highly advised, especially for a saltwater aquarium. Quarantine can be used to allow the new fish to gain their appetite, up on a healthy weight, and be treated for infections and parasites. 4-8 weeks are typical quarantine periods.

As a beginner to saltwater aquariums, you may have seen the word ‘Quarantine’ floating around and it conjures up images of sick people in isolation in third-world countries.

The same can be said for fish. Quarantine is a separate aquarium that can either be set up at any time or stay running 24/7. ‘Great, another aquarium to look after‘ is most people’s thoughts! But I want to share with you a few things you may not know…

A quarantine tank can be a small 5 gallon aquarium that can be set up for under $50
It can be ready to go at a moments notice if you have a sick or new fish, providing you ‘Seed’ the filter sponge in your aquarium
EVERY new fish you purchase SHOULD go into quarantine for at least 4 weeks
This time period gives the fish time to recover from transportation
Allows you to get the fish feeding without competition
Allows the fish to build its strength if previously kept in a low-quality aquarium
Allows you to treat for internal and external parasites, fungi and disease
Prevents the introduction of ‘Tank-Dessimating’ illnesses like Ich & Velvet to your main aquarium

The tank only needs to be very simple, with no lights, no sand. Just a sponge filter, a heater, thermometer and a few PVC Pipe fittings for shelter and that’s all you need.

My Quarantine Tank – Ready To Go In 10 Minutes

Your fish will really come on leaps and bounds if you place them in there for 4 weeks after purchase so that when they reach your display tank they will be fat, happy, illness-free, and strong to enjoy a new life in your glass box.

Not only does this ensure your entire shol is healthy it helps eliminate stress which is a catalyst for so many tank-destroying infections and illnesses!

For more information on Quarantine I really recommend you read my article dedicated to it:
Fish Quarantine. How To Be Ready In Minutes

To Finish

Your new fish will instantly tell you if they are going to accept food. Generally, if they are out and about within the first hour, they will probably accept a small portion of food.

If they are hiding just give them at least 24 hours before trying to feed them. If these are your first fish and they are not eating be sure to remove any portions of uneaten food to prevent it from breaking down and fouling your water. A turkey baster or gravel vacuum are great tools for removing said food.

With time your fish will get the confidence they need and then they will be out and about swimming all the time.

Best Aquarium Gadgets: 12 Things I Cannot Live Without!!

When any task in life gets repeated often we can fall into the trap of procrastination and just leave it until tomorrow, then the next day and so on. Procrastination on an aquarium especially saltwater can be fatal for your livestock!

To help fend off procrastination we need to make the work on our aquarium as easy as possible, as quickly as possible and if able, get something to do it for us! This is where this Top 12 list comes in of the best gadgets I’ve found over my time.

After owning most of them I can tell you that I would never own an aquarium without them!

12 Best Aquarium Gadgets For Making Life Easier!:

Magnetic Clips To Replace Suction Cups
Flood Alarm
Magnetic Algae Scrapers
Refractometer
WiFi Camera
Automatic Feeder
Hanna Checker Colorimeters
Dosing Pumps
Flood Guardian
Automatic Top-Off System
Roller Mat
Aquarium Controller

I placed these in order from cheapest to most expensive as I want to share with you why these have been game-changers in their own task, for not only my sanity but allowing me freedom from my aquarium and ultimately more time with my family!

#1 Magnetic Clips

Equipment suction cups have been the thorn in the side of aquarists for decades because they work great for a while, then the suction cup material hardens and ‘Poof’, off they pop!

You may have experienced this yourself when you come home and your aquarium is cloudy because your powerhead suction cups let go and now your sandbed is being blown all over your aquarium!

Yep, it’s happened to us all! It makes your heart skip a beat when you first see your pristine aquarium now looking like a scene from a Sahara Sandstorm!

The MagClip from Zoo Med allows you to now secure that heater, airline, tube, sensor or powerhead (with some easy modification) so that they never move!

Just find a clip that closely matches the equipment and secure it in place.

To secure a powerhead bracket you can buy Nylon bolts that you can screw or superglue into the magnet.

Things To Be Aware Of

Each pack contains only 1 magnet! Fixing a heater will require 2 packs for example
They are generic sized clips so they may not fit snugly to your equipment being held.
They can become brittle so don’t go bending the clips – Heat with a hairdryer or similar beforehand
Like all magnets, keep an eye on them over time to ensure their coating does not break down
Magnets may not be strong enough on thick-walled aquariums.

Where To Find Them

You can find them and their reviews Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip:

If the clip size is not big enough for the heater or equipment you are trying to secure use this tip:

You can find the Zip-Tie Bases Here at Amazon.com
and…
Zip-Ties Here at Amazon.com too.

Secure these plastic Zip-Tie bases to the magnet using Nylon bolts and Superglue (If Required).

This will allow you to secure any sized piece of gear.

Just be sure to get the Zip-Ties that contain no metal clips inside.

#2 Flood Alarm

One of these $12 items saved a client’s house when a manufacturing defect in a hose led to said hose splitting and pouring water into the home. Without this simple device, the restoration cost would have been immense!

Every aquarium owner should have one of these behind their aquarium, behind their sump and even behind their washing machine! Just treat them like your smoke alarms and test them once in a while and replace the batteries every few years and you are good to go!

This simple device uses two metal contacts to detect the presence of water. Once detected they sound a very loud alarm that runs until the device is removed from the water.

One cool detail about these is the bottom plate the contacts are on can be removed and placed remotely by the means of a connecting wire. This allows you to get the sensor under an item like a washing machine etc.

Things To Be Aware Of

You have to ensure the batteries are replaced for it to work
You have to be home to hear it
It will not isolate the water supply
It will not send a message to your phone/computer
Metal sensor cannot be placed in your aquarium water

Where To Find Them

You can find them and their Reviews Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip:

The alarm above is what is known as a ‘Passive Sensor’. It sits and monitors. But if you want to create an Active System that can detct, notify and then act, you can upgrade to these items:

Upgrading to a Wireless sensor allows you to be notified anytime it detects a water leak at the remote sensor.

This system will sound a 60db alarm and notify you via its Smartphone App.

Around $20-$30 You can find it Here at Amazon.com

To go one step further you can install an Automated Valve Closing Device.

What happens if you are not home when you get the alarm!? The water is still going to pour out, but this device changes that.

By easily installing this device over your house water shutoff valve you can easily tell the valve to close from your smartphone – Shutting off the water!

Under $40
You can find it Here at Amazon.com

#3 Magnetic Algae Scrapers

Your aquarium is going to get green and on a daily basis. How green it gets depends on many factors for another article, but to keep your tank sparkling you need to clean your glass regularly.

When you have a device like a magnetic algae scraper it takes only minutes to completely clean every glass panel. Without one you are getting out the brush, getting your hands wet, then spilling and splashing water everywhere!

Once you purchase a magnetic algae scraper you will have wondered why you waited so long!

Having this gadget will allow you to clean your glass every day if needed in the same amount of time it takes to boil the kettle!

Things To Be Aware Of

The magnets can be very strong and if you pinch your skin by getting the two halves close together you will curse!
Keep the algae scraper away from your sand bed. It will pick up grains of sand that can scratch your glass
Inspect the rough and felt surfaces before each use to check for single grains of sand
Get an algae scraper that floats – Makes life so much easier 😉
When creating your aquascape ensure you leave enough room for your algae scraper to pass by each rock
If you have an Acrylic aquarium, be sure to get a scraper for Acrylic – Glass ones WILL scratch your tank!

Where To Find Them

You can find a Great Selection Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip:

There is a really easy way to supercharge the power of your scraper that sends the algae flying off in sheets – A Razor Blade!

Be very cautious with the blades near the silicone seams of your tank!

Use a toothbrush or algae brush to get the seams once a week. The blades also allow you to scrape right down to your sand while keeping the scrubbing pad far away from the grains.

By purchasing an Add-On blade attachment or getting a scraper with an integrated stainless-steel blade your algae scraping time has just halved again!

The first time I tried a blade I was blown away and I’ve used one ever since! It scrapes the algae off in sheets and your fish – Tangs especially, go nuts!

#4 Refractometer

Accurate testing of your water parameters is paramount to not only allow you to keep your water at the optimum levels, but also very important to track any changes or trends that may be happening over time.

Measuring the salt content or salinity as its commonly referred to is something that you should be doing regularly – Every few days. As the water in your aquarium evaporates it leaves the salt behind making your water ‘Saltier’ if left unattended.

Making new water will require you to test the new batch before you put it into your aquarium. You will literally be testing your salinity all the time. One of the quickest and most affordable ways to get an accurate result is by using a Refractometer.

This inexpensive, easy-to-use, easy to calibrate device is one of the first purchases you should make for your reef tank.

A few drops of aquarium water dropped onto the screen, then a look through the eyepiece will instantly tell you exactly what your salinity is.

It literally takes you seconds to do! These are far better than the Swing-Arm or Bobbing Hydrometers that can be horribly inaccurate.

Things To Be Aware Of

The eyepiece can be turned to focus it for easy reading
Clean and dry the testing prism plate after each use
If hard to read, point it directly at a light bulb and read again
If dropped it may need recalibrating
Calibrate it every month to remain accurate

Where To Find Them

You can find them Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip:

I mentioned keeping them calibrated often to maintain their accuracy. I calibrate mine every month and it is super easy to do.

A quick turn of the calibration screw to adjust the reading to 35ppt or 1.026 is all it takes to calibrate this device!

Simple, easy and quick!

You can find the Calibration Fluid Here at Amazon.com

When purchasing your Refractometer also pick up a bottle of Refractometer Calibration Fluid.

Just a couple of drops placed onto the Refractometers Prism Plate and it will give you a reading. If your Refractometer does not show 35ppt or 1.026 then it needs calibrating.

Refractometer Calibration Adjustment Screw

#5 Wifi Camera

If you want peace of mind when you are away on vacation or a business trip then a simple wifi camera will be one of the best $50 you will ever spend on your aquarium.

I found this use by accident when I fitted a baby camera to monitor our son when he was first born. Leading up to our first trip away I thought about moving the camera to watch the aquarium while I was away. For the first time, I could relax while away from home!

Since that trip, I fitted two permanently, one to view my aquarium and one to view my sump.

You can pick these up for under $30 bucks and they are super easy to setup. Most come with a smartphone app and a web browser so you can log in at any time and see what’s going on.

Many of them have night vision to allow you to see the tank at night and also sound so you can hear if everything is running as it should.

Things To Be Aware Of

Mount your camera so that you can only view the aquarium and not the whole room – Privacy
Ensure you follow the setup instructions & create your own usernames and passwords
Some cameras can be remotely moved and rotated
These are for external aquarium use only – They are not waterproof
Do not leave these to live stream your feed all day at work – You could end up with a Data Overage Charge on your Internet Bill!

Where To Find Them

From $19.99
Click Here for a Good Selection, Information & Reviews at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip

If you purchase multiple cameras from the same manufacturer you are able to link them all into one app and view them all in real-time.

Not only can you just watch your aquarium, but you could also monitor the inside and outside of your home, your pond, your doorstep, anything! A whole-home security system for under $100!

I’m really liking the Wyze Lab range of Wifi cameras and if I were to buy new cameras these are what I would get.

They come in a range of models with a ton of features including Alexa & Google integration, add-on sensors, motion alerts and many, many more!

To see the Wyze Lab range with tens of thousands of reviews, more information and pricing
Click Here to go to Amazon.com

#6 Automatic Feeder

This device is one of the first gadgets that allows you to go on vacation without having someone come and feed your fish! The automatic fish feeder is a really simple piece of equipment that dispenses a set amount of food whenever you wish.

Not only are automatic fish feeders useful just for when you go on vacation but many aquarists set them up permanently to dispense small amounts of food throughout the day. This is especially helpful when you have high calorie burning fish like Anthias that need regular meals.

The great thing about automatic fish feeders is the flexibility they give you.

They can dispense different size foods, they can dispense once or multiple times a day, they can be a standalone unit or be coupled to an aquarium controller, some even have 2 chambers to dispense different foods at the same time.

Things to Be Aware Of

When not using the feeder remove the batteries before packing it away
Always use new batteries when going on a multiple week trip to ensure it doesn’t fail early
Setup your auto feeder a week before you leave to ensure it works as expected
Set it up to feed a little less than you would by hand – Prevents overfeeding
Prevent it from getting splashed as food can then stick and not dispense properly

Where To Find Them

You can find a Great Selection with Information, Reviews, and Prices
Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip:

Setting up the dispensing amount from your automatic feeder can take several attempts to get it right. Dispensing this food into your aquarium every time is a sure-fire way to overfeed the aquarium and set the water up for problems while you are gone.

The best way I have found to do this, and the way I have done it for years is this:

NLS Pellet Food — A mix of pellets and flakes works great in auto feeders.

Set yourself up at the kitchen table/counter to make this easy to work at.
Get a small bowl and take a regular pinch of food that you would normally feed and drop it into the bowl – This is your Control Amount.
Take another bowl and set the auto feeder to dispense once into this second bowl.
You are trying to match the amount dispensed to the control amount in the first bowl.
Pour the dispensed food back into the food container, readjust the gate on the auto feeder and dispense again.
Repeat this process until the dispensed amount matches or is just slightly less than the control amount.
Once they match your auto feeder is ready to have your dispensed times set.
Fill the food hopper to about 80% so the food has room to tumble during rotation and not get stuck.
Ensure enough food is in the hopper for the duration of your trip.
Position the auto feeder over the aquarium in an area where it won’t get splashed
Monitor feeding and operation for a few days before your departure.

#7 Hanna Checker Colorimeters

Regular testing of your aquarium water is a fundamental part of this hobby. Not only does this tell you the quality of your water but when tracked, it allows you to spot rising and falling trends to which you can react to and fix.

To some aquarists, testing can be a real chore, and getting the right test kit for you is paramount to ensure your testing regime does not slip. I have used the Salifert range of test kits for years and they are super easy to use, but there is one problem that many people can face – Eyesight.

For those of you that have trouble comparing the sample to the scale or are colorblind, the regular test kits can be really problematic.

This is where the Hanna Checker series works great! A simple, easy-to-read digital number tells you exactly what the value of your water parameter is – No more guessing.

Things To Be Aware Of

They have a higher upfront cost, then ongoing reagent costs
They need to be calibrated often
Some of the powder sachets need careful handling to prevent spillage
Alkalinity and Phosphate Checkers are the most popular for coral owners

Where To Find Them

You can find them Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip

When you reach the point of starting to keep corals, and especially LPS and SPS, Phosphate is a parameter you will want to keep a close eye on as it can really prevent your corals from growing if it’s not correct.

When keeping fish your phosphate should be <0.2ppm
When keeping soft corals and LPS it should be <0.05ppm
When keeping SPS corals it should be <0.03ppm

Phosphate can be a difficult parameter to accurately measure with a test kit but luckily Hanna has come to the rescue once again.

There are two checkers from Hanna that you want to use.

The Phosphate checker will detect the higher levels of phosphate from 0 – 2.50ppm. This is generally used in Fish Only aquariums.

The Phosphate ULR Checker is the one as coral keepers we need. This checker tests the lower end range from 0 to 0.90ppm.

#8 Dosing Pumps

When your corals’ demand for Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium outgrow the rate at which they can be replaced with regular water changes, it is time to begin supplemental dosing of these elements.

Daily dosing can soon become a chore and it can also prevent you from leaving your aquarium for a vacation, for example. This is where automated dosing pumps come to your rescue.

Automated dosing pumps can come as a single head unit or multiple head units to fit your particular needs.

They can be simple pumps that you connect to a plug-in wall timer for control, have onboard electronic control or be connected to an aquarium controller.

No matter what, these devices will give you greater freedom from your aquarium and are very accurate at helping to maintain rock-solid water parameters.

Things To Be Aware Of

Dosers can range from $60 up to $600, so pick accordingly
Do your research into the quality & reliability of the doser you intend to purchase
Dosers still require weekly water testing
They will dose exactly what you tell them too – Wrong Data = Wrong Dosage
Keep an eye on the quantities in your fluid reservoirs
Mount dosers above outlets of dosing pipes to prevent siphons

Where To Find Them

Click Here to see a Good Selection, More Information, Reviews & Prices
Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip

Dosers are one of those devices that you tend to set and forget and that almost bit me in the ass when I first began to use them! The pumping parts of the dosers need regular maintenance to ensure accuracy!

Here are some things to check regularly:

Check the soft pipe that the rollers squeeze on. They have a limited life and can split – If it sucks in air, it will not dose accurately
Clean the rollers and pipes every month
Every week grab a sample when it doses to ensure its the correct amount
Every month calibrate each dose pump to ensure accuracy
Every month clean the outlets of the dosing pipes to ensure they remain free of crusty deposits

#9 Flood Guardian

When making water for your aquarium’s water change I can bet that you have either flooded your home, you know someone who has, or it could be in your near future if you have not taken measures to prevent it.

Almost every month on social media or the forums I see someone who forgot to turn off their RO/DI unit and it overflowed their bin/container and flooded the floor. For some, they catch it early and it’s not too much clean up, but others have left it overnight and woken up to a swimming pool in their home!

This is where the Flood Guardian from XP Aqua comes in! It is nicknamed the Marriage Saver for a reason! For $69.99 it is a no brainer!

Things To Be Aware Of

This is Not an Automatic Top-off System – See next gadget
Direct sunlight on the sensor can affect its operation
Microbubbles on the sensor can affect its operation
Too thick a mounting surface can cause the sensor to ‘Pop Off’
Pay attention to the Direction Of Flow arrow on the solenoid valve

Where To Find It

See all the Reviews, Information and Questions
Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip

If you are unable to afford a Flood Guardian just yet here are some tips that you can use to help prevent a flood:

Install a float valve into the side of your collection bin/container to help shut off the water when it reaches the valve.
Instead of using one large bin, use two smaller buckets and place them in the shower stall or bathtub. Two smaller containers are easier to lift and carry than a large Brute trashcan.
Buy a Flood Alarm mentioned in Gadget #2 to alert you.
Set a timer on your phone to remind you.
Place sticky notes on your pillow or back of the door to remind you before you go to bed or leave the house.

You can find the float valve Here at Amazon.com

#10 Automatic Top-Off System

Every aquarium is going to evaporate water. When the water is around 80°F it is going to happen, how much your tank evaporates can depend on other factors like surface agitation, other tanks connected to a system like coral frag tanks and a sump, how much heat is given off by equipment etc.

As the water evaporates especially in a saltwater aquarium it leaves behind the salt and if that water is not replenished your water will become ‘Saltier’. Left unattended it will kill your livestock. To combat this we need to replace this water lost to evaporation with Fresh Water on a daily basis. Just like the dosing pumps, doing it manually can become a chore!

One of the first upgrades many aquarists will purchase is an ATO – Automatic Top-Off System.

There are many systems available for every size of aquarium. Some are simple and some are advanced. There is one for every budget!

This completely automatic system will sense a drop in the water and activate a pump to replenish that lost water.

Things To Be Aware Of

This system will pump water from a reservoir into your aquarium
You need to keep the reservoir topped up
The bigger the reservoir, the less it needs filling
You ONLY put fresh water in the reservoir
Follow the manufacturers’ instructions to prevent siphons
Buy a quality, reputable and well-reviewed ATO system

Where To Find Them

Click Here for a Vast Selection, Information, Reviews & Prices
Here at Amazon.com

Beginners Tip:

Some ATO systems will have a timer component to them to prevent the ATO pump from running too long. This helps prevent a stuck or incorrect reading from the sensor allowing the pump to continue running forever.

If too much Fresh Water was added into your aquarium it would drop the salinity of the water and possibly kill your livestock.

It is important to set this timer correctly by following the manufacturers’ directions when you first install your ATO.

#11 Roller Mats

Roller Mats or Fleece Rollers are a fairly new technology to really offload one of the most laborious tasks in reefing – Cleaning your mechanical filter floss or socks every few days.

The job of the mechanical filtration is to remove detritus, uneaten food and fish excrement from the water. If this captured waste is then left to sit in an unchanged filter, in the water, it will break down and negate the purpose of the filter.

These roller mats are a great way to automate the task of regular floss/sock replacement!

They may take a little planning before you buy your aquarium on which one to buy to fit your type of system, but if you can install one I know you will not regret it.

With so much praise from across the community, my next build will definitely be incorporating a Roller Mat to give me even more time to enjoy the tank rather than working on it!

Things To Be Aware Of

Most of the roller mats at this time will only fit sumped aquariums
Unless you are lucky, most sumps will require some planning or DIY to fit one
They are definitely a ‘Want’ item and not a ‘Need’ item
Depending on your bioload, a roll could last 6-8 weeks before replacement
Check the roll replacement cost before buying a roller mat system

Where To Find Them

See Here At Amazon.com for More Information

Beginners Tip:

Sorry Guys & Gals, I have to be honest but I’ve got nothing for this one! Being a fairly new product and not having owned one I have not been able to craft a great tip for you!

If you are a tinkerer or DIY minded then these would be easy to build your own, and I think how that’s how I will do mine. There are a few videos out there of DIY roller mats.

The other thing I would be looking into is a simple device to unroll and pressure clean a used roll and reuse it. Some kind of manual rollers with a pump and spraybar, pressure washing the fleece with water could work well.

Time to get out my son’s Lego Technic and start playing!

To Be Continued…

#12 Aquarium Controller

By far one of the most important and best investments you can make in your aquarium! Once you have begun to spend over $500-$1000 on setting up your aquarium then it is time to look at putting a controller on your Christmas Wish List.

A controller may seem extravagant to many but I can tell you I will never own an aquarium without one.

I was lucky enough to have the electronics background to build my own but what they can do for you is phenomenal!

The list of functions even the basic controllers can do is far too long to list in this article, but they can save your aquarium from disaster before you even knew you had a problem!

Neptune Systems ApexEL Aquarium Controller

From controlling lights, pumps, and equipment to monitoring water parameters and letting you know if something is wrong, the Aquarium Controller is like having your own Full-Time Maintenance Technician looking after your aquarium!

Things To Be Aware Of

You can buy base model packages and then add functions as you go
Neptune Systems Apex is the industry leader and has many plug-in modules to make upgrading easy
Just like dosers, aquarium controllers will do exactly what you tell them too. Bad Information = Bad Outcomes
Most integrate into a smartphone app for real-time monitoring and control from anywhere in the world
The sensors need calibrating regularly to remain accurate
There are many forums dedicated to each individual aquarium controller

To find out much more about how much an aquarium controller could help you please have a read of my dedicated article:

Aquarium Controllers: All You Need To Know Right Here!

Beginners Tip:

Neptune Systems Apex range of aquarium controllers are by far the most popular. The number of add-on modules you can purchase for it is staggering and growing every month.

Because of their popularity, many aquarium equipment manufacturers are making products that are easily compatible with the Apex aquarium controllers.

By looking for this logo on products like lights, pumps, filtration, etc it will be instantly recognized by your Apex controller and will allow full control of that device through the smartphone app or web browser.

This allows you to monitor and control all your equipment from just one place with ease.

To Finish

No matter your budget there is a gadget to help you make a job easier or quicker. You may find that after a few months or years you end up with every one of these gadgets and you will wonder how you ever managed without them!

Rome was not built in a day and neither is your aquarium! Build your equipment up slowly over time and you will find that your time spent maintaining it will decrease, allowing you more time to spend with your family enjoying your piece of the ocean.

Beginners Start Here For Super Helpful Stuff

Tank Setup Guides & Costs

Gift Ideas For Your Reef Nerd

Find Your Next Super Helpful Article Here

RECENT ARTICLES

How Do Water Parameters Effect Fish?

Temperature

Ph

Salinity

Ammonia

Nitrate

How Does Environment Effect Fish?

Light

Flow

Food

Territorial Tank Mates

Tank To Tank Differences

Quarantine

One Last Tip…

To Finish

Further Reading

What are Aquarium Safe Super Glues?

Gorilla Glue Gel

Loctite Super Glue Gel

Seachem Reef Glue

BSI Frag Glue

Two Little Fishes CorAffix

Boston Aqua Farms Reef Glue

EcoTech Marine Coral Glue

E.S.V Zap Gel

DollarTree Super Glue Gel

Bondic™

What are Aquarium Safe Silicones?

GE Silicone 1

GE SCS 1200

ASI Aquarium Sealant

Aqueon Silicone Sealant

Aquascape Silicone Sealant

Momentive RTV 100 Series

What are Aquarium Safe Cements?

Acrylic

Water Consistency:

WELD-ON 4

Tensol 12

Gel Consistency:

WELD-ON 16

Tensol 70

PVC & ABS

Oatey Regular Clear PVC Cement

Oatey Clear PVC Primer

WELD-ON 705 Clear PVC Cement

WELD-ON C-65 PVC Clear Cleaner

Oatey All Purpose Clear PVC/ABS Cement

WELD-ON 790 Multi-Purpose PVC/ABS

Aquarium Safe Hot Melt Glue

To Finish

Further Reading

What Things Are To Consider When Buying Your First Reef Tank?

Volume

Initial Budget

Monthly Budget

Installation Location

Planning to Move House

Time

Are There Different Types of Saltwater Aquarium?

Standard Aquariums

All-In-One Aquariums

Aquariums With Sumps

Cube Aquariums

Drop Off Aquariums

Saltwater Aquarium Setup Examples

To Finish

Further Reading

Things To Consider

Legality

Pollution

Type Of Sand

Grain Size

Collection Location

Transportation